Paradise Found: Lake Malawi

So, almost four years after my first attempt to visit Lake Malawi, this past weekend I headed back there with my PPB roommates. This time, however, the trip was a success!

We left early Saturday, which left us with plenty of time to miss a turn, end up going 50km in the wrong direction (to Mwanza, a town on the border of Mozambique), and then find our way back to the correct route.

But soon enough, we had arrived at paradise: Lake Malawi! Crystal clear water as far as the eye can see, pretty islands, palm trees on a sandy beach, and a quiet, hippie hostel to call home for the night. The hostel, called Mufasa Backpakers, was really great - I'd recommend it for travellers not concerned with en suite bathrooms and luxuries like that. After being greeted by the friendly hostel staff, we booked a boat trip out to snorkel and swim at an island later that afternoon.

Monkey Island

Josey sitting on the boat front paddling!

The boat trip was hilarious on various levels. First, we saw a tiny boat and thought surely it was taking us to a bigger boat that could hold 4 people. But no, that was our boat. We all climb in, and chat for ten minutes waiting for the motor to start. When Lauren asked the boat driver about it, he said the battery was just dying, so the motor wasn't really working. Not sure how he thought we were going to get there. Lauren offered to paddle, then the boat driver took over since the island was still far off. Forty minutes of Josey's paddling against the wind later, we landed on a rocky island and found out the snorkel gear was broken so we all just swam. It was lovely!

climbing rocks in flip-flops...exactly why chacos were made?!

the view from Jam Rock!

A heaping plate of rice and Chambo (fresh fish) at Kingfisher's in Monkey Bay was a great way to end our first day. On Sunday, we asked the staff if there was a way to hike up and see a view of the Bay. They pointed us towards a rocky hill, and assured me that my chitenge, shorts, and flip-flops were fine hiking attire. That made for a pretty funny climbing adventure, but we made it to the top for some spectacular views! It was short and sweet, but SO beautiful, and fun to travel with Lauren and Cherise!

At Kingfisher's

Until next time, Monkey Bay!

Also, I typed a great post about our joint Malawi and American Independence Day 5th of Braii, but the internet failed me so here are some pictures which will hopefully suffice!

Dr. Manary, Lauren, Tereza, M'gumbo, Cherise, and I

Malawian dance off?

The perfect braii!

with great friends!

No American braii is complete without dessert!
Homemade Banana Pudding and Apple Pie!

Dr. M and the PPB team!

Waking up

early morning on the road to Mulanje 

There’s something magical about watching a place wake up.

Even before the sunrise, the city of Blantyre begins to come alive. Guards getting off the night shift walk down the quiet streets. Joggers weave up and down the twisted hills of Blantyre. Minibuses make their first stops, and begin a long day of loading and unloading passengers along the roadside.

The sun creeps over the mountains and more of the city is illuminated. Mothers sweep the dirt away from their porches. Kids shiver and squirm as they stand in the tub for a before-school bath. Men greet each other as they ride along on their bicycles, sacks of charcoal bigger than themselves strapped to the back. Markets begin to dance with color as old wooden stalls are filled with the day’s tomatoes, onions, papayas, and cabbage.

Outside the city, the tall grass begins to glow through the fog, bright with the light of a new morning. Women gather at the village wells, and they leave with colorful plastic buckets filled with the day’s water balancing carefully on their heads. A man crosses the road with his herd of cattle; kids in blue and white uniforms walk purposefully towards school.

I feel like in the quiet awakening of Malawi, I get to see it in all its beauty. I’ve never really been one to appreciate mornings, but I’m so glad I get to here. If you’ve never been up to see your city or town wake up, try it. You can always sleep in tomorrow. And you might just come to appreciate things about where you are that you’d never even noticed before!

In addition to enjoying these amazing mornings in Southern Malawi, here are some other highlights of the week:

N'sima for lunch - finally!

at the Final of the African Netball Championships!

Team PPB climbs Michiru Mountain!
(not pictured is Alex, who decided to run up the mountain instead of hike it....)

Cross at the top of Michiru Mountain